Assembly Quick Card

Setup & Support

Assembly Quick Card

Everything you need at the bench, on four pages. Print it, keep it next to the box, and read it once before you pick up a tool.

Download the Quick Card (PDF) →

Or print this page from your browser — each section prints on its own page. The full, detailed guide lives on Assembly Documents →

1 of 4

Before You Start

What you need

  • One 5/32″ Allen wrench. That’s the whole tool list.
  • Noalox antenna grease. A fresh tube.
  • Blue Loctite. Optional, for permanent installs.
  • A battery AM radio.

Every splice is already bolted in. No loose hardware in the box.

Pick the spot

  • Tune the AM radio between stations, so you hear only noise.
  • Walk the whole lot.
  • Plant the pole in the quietest spot.

Set the sleeve

  • Dig 3 feet deep. 4 feet for the 28′.
  • Set the sleeve plumb, in concrete.
  • Let it cure 24 hours before you load the pole.
Dig and pour before the antenna arrives,
and you can raise it the week it lands.

2 of 4

Build the Pole

Section order, bottom to top

  • 1. Base. Insulator with the slot. The slot sits just above the sleeve.
  • 2. Feedpoint. Insulator with two round holes.
  • 3 to 5. Standard. Interchangeable. On a flagpole, keep the cleat within reach.
  • 6. Top. Holes on one end only. Holes go down.

Joining sections

  • Remove only the top two bolts on the splice.
  • Never remove the lower bolts.
  • Each hole must show a full circle. Never force a bolt.
  • Noalox on the surfaces. Snug, not tight.

Hardware care

  • Surfaces get Noalox. Threads get Blue.
  • Never Red Loctite.
  • Never thread locker in the fiberglass insulators.
  • Never an impact driver.

Replacement bolt: 1/4″-20 x 1/2″ button head, 304 stainless, 5/32″ Allen.

3 of 4

Feedline and Choke

The step not to miss

  • Snap the 3 spacers onto the ladder line first, about 12″ apart.
  • Thread it up through sections 1 and 2 before joining 2 to 3.
  • One wire out each round hole.
  • Phase it: the upper-radiator wire goes to the PL-259 center pin.
  • Leave 2 to 3 feet out the bottom slot.

The choke

  • The 5 ferrites are your 1:1 choke. Snap each until it clicks.
  • It goes at the feedpoint.
  • Remote tuner at the antenna? Then on the radio side of the tuner.
The tuner matches. The choke chokes.
No 4:1 or 9:1. Anywhere.

At the base

  • Most owners: the adapter to coax.
  • Also good: ladder line all the way, or twisted pair in conduit.
  • Weatherproof the adapter.

Compare feedlines first: Feedline Loss Calculator

4 of 4

Tune It, Protect It

First tune, remote tuner

  • Control box: 12 V on, light lit.
  • 10 to 20 watts, steady carrier.
  • Key it. Press Tune. Watch SWR fall.
  • Repeat once per band.

Some bands look dead? That band hasn’t been tuned yet. Nothing is broken.

Shack tuner

  • Retune at every band change.

Grounding

  • The antenna floats. It’s a dipole.
  • The station is grounded, per the ARRL.
  • A bulkhead entry panel, bonded to the service ground.
  • Surge protectors on the coax. DC-pass for a remote tuner.
Storm coming?
Disconnect. Flag down. Nothing on top.

Stuck? Call 435-200-4902. An operator answers.

The detailed version of every step: Assembly Documents · Feedline Kit Install Guide · Your RF System

Ham Radio is fun again! Pass it on… 73, Jon KL2A