STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE TO BUILDING THE FLAGPOLE ANTENNA

Pro Tip: Identify Sections & Build from the ground up

First, when the box arrives be certain you have the total height of your chosen antenna, plus an extra 3' for ground insertion. There should be no loose hardware in the box from this antenna. You will also have a Feedline Kit and Flag Kit for those with a Flagpole Antenna.

Note on the sections: The thicker wall sections are installed at the lower portion of the antenna and the thinner, lighter sections are for the upper portion of the antenna. Each section has its splice or transition bolted to it. Remove the top two bolts (not the lower 2 bolts as it may be holding support internally within the tube), lower the next section down onto it, line up the holes, and re-fasten the bolts. Tighten down all bolts. 

Use Antenna Grease (Noalox) on metal-to-metal connections to preserve your antenna. This can be found at your local hardware store for $5 or so. 

For permanent installations consider using Lock-tite or similar as the lower bolts can loosen over time from the wind movement. This is natural. Many simply re-tighten any loosened bolts from time to time as another option.

Identify and build steps:

1. The lowest section is meant for ground insertion. It matches the length of the PVC included. It can be identified as the tube with the slotted insulator. This slot is meant to sit just above ground level, for ground installs. Remove the top two sets of bolts of the insulator and drop the next tube section on and fasten the bolts. 
2. Have at the ready your feedline kit. You will insert this finished and prepared feedline kit before fastening the next section. You'll have the ladder line with the 3 spacers placed so the spacers are internal to the tubing between the insulators. Cut and prep 6" pigtails at the top of your ladder line so that you can pull each through their left and right hole for connection to the dipole sections. Pull this ladder line section into this second section before fastening it to the third section above. You'll likely end up with 2-3' out of the bottom slot holes for feedline connection from the shack after the build. 
3. Pro tip: This Feed-point Section, with two round holes within the insulator, is where the two wires from the top side of the ladder line exit the insulator. One left and one right. Connect one wire to the bolt on the upward tubing section on one side, and the other down on the other side. Note which wire is up as this is the longest section of the vertical dipole antenna. You will connect this to your center conductor of the coax headed toward the shack. 
4. To identify the next section, the Lower Dipole section has bolted to it an insulator with two round holes at the top end of it. Loosen the top two sets of bolts and prepare to lower the next section down onto it.
5. The Flag Cleat Section is next. This one exhibits 2 holes used for the Flag Cleat (if applicable). These two holes are on the bottom of this tube section.
6. The Middle Sections are all the same going up the pole with the transition sections on the upper side of the tubing to allow the next section to fit.
7. The Top Section's upper side has no bolt holes. This is the top of your antenna.

Reminder: If you are using an ATU at the base of the vertical antenna, please consider raising the tuning circuit (the tuner) at least 6 inches off of the ground, as well as the ladder line feed, and RF Choke as they too must be above ground. This is all part of the antenna system until we reach the RF Choke and Coax back to the shack.