Your Greyline system is designed for a clean, fast install. One person, one Allen wrench, 30–60 minutes. Everything you need is below. If you get stuck, call us: 435-200-4902

Every splice is already bolted into one end of its section at the bench and fit-checked there. The splice belongs to the section above and slides down into the tube below. To join sections, remove only the exposed bolts on the splice, slide the next section down over it, line up the holes, and put the bolts back. Never remove the lower bolts that hold a splice into its own section. If a hole does not present as a full circle, stop and re-index the section rather than forcing the bolt.

1. BASE: the section whose fiberglass insulator has the feedline slot. It goes into the PVC sleeve (or the tilt base), slot just above the sleeve so the feedline can exit. No holes on its bottom end -- nothing attaches below it.
2. FEEDPOINT SECTION: the one whose insulator has two round holes. The ladder line runs up inside sections 1 and 2 and out those holes, one wire to each side of the dipole. That insulator is the electrical break between the two halves of the antenna; it belongs there.
3-5. STANDARD SECTIONS: interchangeable. On a flagpole model, one carries the halyard cleat -- place it where you can reach the cleat.
6. TOP: the shorter section with holes on one end only. Holes go down; the plain end is the top, where the flag truck threads in. (Taller models add standard sections in the middle.)

The Noise Audit — 10 Minutes, Massive Payoff

1. Grab a battery-powered AM radio — no connection to house wiring, that's important.
2. Tune off any broadcast station so you hear only noise, no signal. Daytime for less noise, evening for when everyone is home and everything is on.
3. Walk the property — front yard, back yard, side yards, corners.
4. Note the quiet zones (away from the meter, HVAC, neighbor's panel, LED lighting).
5. Note the loud zones — near anything switching or motorized.
6. Install in the quietest spot your lot allows. Your on-air experience will be much higher quality.

Noalox vs. Loctite — Two Different Jobs (and One Trap)

Noalox is an anti-oxidant grease for the metal-to-metal mating surfaces (Step 4): it keeps the aluminum junctions electrically clean and corrosion-free. Buy a fresh tube — old ones dry out.

Loctite is a threadlocker against wind-loosening (Step 5) — and the grade matters. Blue is the right one: medium-strength, holds against vibration, breaks free with hand tools. Red is the trap: it is the permanent formula and takes a torch — several hundred degrees — to release. Red on antenna bolts turns your first season check or whip swap into a blowtorch project.

Keep the two apart: surfaces get Noalox, threads get Blue — never both in the same spot. Grease on the threads defeats the threadlocker.

How tight? These are not torque-critical connections — snug tight with the 5/32" Allen is the factory answer, and 18-8 stainless into aluminum wants snug, not maximum. For the spec-minded: the industry torque tables put 1/4"-20 stainless, dry, at 63.6 in-lb — treat that as a ceiling, not a target.

Flagpole (DXF) owners

The truck’s pulley carries your halyard, and the flag flies from the pole below it. Adding the whip? It threads into the truck above — by hand, no tools. The flag and the whip fly together; nothing about the whip displaces the flag. The storm rule: when the forecast turns, flag down, and nothing on top. Anything at the tip of the pole in a blow is a sail on the longest lever arm the antenna has. A flag light belongs at the bottom, aimed up -- it lights the flag, meets the Flag Code, and keeps the antenna inside its guarantee.

Vertical (DXV) owners

Your antenna ships with the same truck — just leave the pulley empty. No rope required, and it works great: the whip threads in exactly the same way. If you want a cleaner look, we are manufacturing a premium machined cap right now — sleek, no pulley, and it receives the whip identically. It will be available as an optional swap; call to get on the list: 435-200-4902

Remote Tuner (RT-100 Class) — You Don’t Hear It, You See It

1. Confirm the control box in your shack has its 12V power connected and its light on. The tuner at the antenna is powered through the coax from that box — no power there, no tuner, period.
2. Pick a band, find a clear frequency, select a steady-carrier mode (RTTY, FM, or key-down CW), and set power low — 10 to 20 watts.
3. Key the carrier and, while transmitting, press the Tune button on the control box.
4. Watch your SWR meter: the reading starts high and falls as the tuner cycles, settling low within a few seconds. That falling needle is you “hearing” the remote tuner. Unkey — the match is now stored in memory for that band.
5. Repeat once per band you work. After that, the tuner recalls its memories instantly and you just operate.

Shack / Desktop Tuner (Manual or Auto)

Same principle, your side of the coax: re-tune at every band change. Auto tuners: press Tune with a low-power carrier flowing. Manual tuners: adjust per your tuner’s procedure until reflected power dips to its minimum. A manual tuner never tunes itself — a band you have not tuned will look dead, and it is not.

Remote tuner won’t respond at all?

Check the DC path. Anything in the coax line that blocks DC silently kills a power-over-coax tuner — and most lightning arresters and surge protectors are DC-blocked by design. If you run one, it must be the DC-pass type. Verify “DC pass” on its spec sheet, or call us: 435-200-4902

The bolt, published so you can source it right

1/4"-20 x 1/2" button-head socket cap bolt, 304 stainless (18-8), fully threaded, 5/32" Allen. Eight per joint: 24 on a 12-footer through 56 on a 28-footer. Any hardware store 1/4"-20 gets you standing again in a pinch; put the stainless back in after. Within reach of salt air, 316 stainless lasts longer.

The Swap, From the Bench

1. Prep the joint. Green Scotch-Brite on the tube ends and splice; light sandpaper only if you must. Acetone, paint thinner, or denatured alcohol to clean. Chase the threads with a cheap 1/4"-20 tap in a drill, especially where old thread locker is stuck.
2. Grease the joint. Noalox on the mating surfaces (Step 4 above). Any normal grease beats nothing.
3. All loose, then snug. Start every bolt before tightening any -- one-at-a-time can leave the joint out of line.
4. How tight is tight. Wrench-tight on a standard 5/32" Allen -- pull hard by hand and stop. The 63.6 in-lb figure above is the ceiling. Never an impact driver or a breaker bar; you can blow straight through the hex.
5. The one never: no thread locker into the helicoils at the fiberglass insulators. It can lock the bolt to the helicoil and back the coil out of the fiberglass -- then the only way apart is cutting the bolt head off. Blue Loctite goes into aluminum threads only.
6. After. Check it once a year and eyeball it after bad weather.

Stainless or plated? Rust is the verdict, the magnet is a hint

304 stainless is mildly magnetic -- a light pull on a magnet is normal, especially on cold-formed button heads. Plated steel grabs hard, and it rusts: white bloom first, then red, at the heads and where they meet the tube. Anything rusting gets replaced with stainless before the snow. When in doubt, replace with known stainless; it is cheap and it settles the question.

Extension kits and older antennas

Wall thickness and splice diameters have changed by production era (2021 builds ran a thinner upper wall; current builds are .125" throughout). When you order an extension or replacement section, tell us the year your antenna was built and the bench sends the connector that fits the first time.

Need help? Call us.

We’re operators. We know this system inside out. 435-200-4902 or the contact form. We’d rather spend 10 minutes on the phone than have you frustrated on the bench.

Related

Common Questions FAQ →
Remote vs. Shack Tuner →
Coax Feedline — Times & Heliax, assembled →
Order Status →
Contact Greyline →